As Valentine’s Day quickly approaches, it’s hard to ignore the hold lingerie has had on the holiday. For example, remember Victoria’s Secret’s (awkward) commercials featuring a new Valentine’s Day lingerie collection every year? Though these commercials are rarely on television now, lingerie ads still dominate social media platforms.
Women’s lingerie has changed drastically over the years. New materials have led to a blend of comfort and style, including breathable underwear, bras without lining or underwire, romantic colors, and luxurious fabrics. Higher tolerance has led to lingerie manufactured for people of all sizes and the inclusion of all genders so everyone can feel empowered, confident, and attractive. And the modern world has paved the way for the acceptance of lingerie as outerwear, resulting in the combination of bra tops, body suits, and sheer shirts paired with jeans and skirts (Sue Ellen Mischke from Seinfeld was ahead of her time!).
Because lingerie has played a vital role in fashion, art, and culture, it is no surprise that there are people who collect these gorgeous pieces of art. Whether vintage undergarments, modern lingerie, or modern lingerie designed to look vintage, lingerie collecting is popular and profitable.
The History of Lingerie
Women’s undergarments date back to ancient times when women wore wool bands to cover their breasts. Ancient Grecians called these garments “apodesmos,” but today, we know them as bandeaus. Ancient Romans also wore undergarments, called “mamillare,” reducing the bust size.
From the Middle Ages to the mid-18th century, women wore restrictive undergarments like girdles, corsets, bodices, basques, and bulky underwear, which were uncomfortable and often painful. Rather than comfort, these items’ purpose was to shape a woman’s appearance.
Lingerie, as we know it today, dates back to the late 19th century. Prominent fashion designer Lucy Duff-Gordon became the most prevalent lingerie promoter and creator and opened a shop named Lucile Ltd. in London, England. Wealthy, aristocratic shoppers flocked to her store to buy lingerie, evening gowns, tea gowns, daywear, and suits made of elegant fabrics and soft pastel colors. Lucy’s goal was to produce lingerie that allowed women to feel relaxed and liberated.
The late 19th century also saw Caresse Crosby’s invention of the brassiere, which gradually led to the decline of the corset. By the early 1900s, lingerie was provocative and revealing, which decades and centuries before were unsuitable for women (unless she was a courtesan!).
World War I was one of the most significant events for women’s fashion. As men left home to fight in the war, women took over their jobs, resulting in the need for more versatile and breathable clothing. Corsets were out, and loose clothing was in. Eventually, however, restrictive clothing returned to focusing on outward appearance. For example, the 1940s and 1950s saw the rise of pointy, padded bras and girdles to give women a curvaceous form. When Frederick Mellinger founded his store Frederick’s of Hollywood, he sold the first push-up bra (his invention) and hired celebrities like Jayne Mansfield and Betty Grable to promote these sultry styles.
The 1960s and 1970s brought relaxed, liberated clothes, and by the 1980s, lingerie moved from underwear to outerwear and became a large, profitable business. Brands like Victoria’s Secret, La Perla, Calvin Klein, and Agent Provocateur became famous and perfected styles like minimalist cotton camisoles and underwear, thigh-high stockings, garter belts, high-cut underwear, animal print, silk nighties, and lace.
Today, lingerie companies focus on comfort, balancing modern and vintage styles, appealing to all genders and body types, and producing pieces that people can wear outside their homes.
The Value of Vintage Lingerie
Vintage lingerie items can see high prices in the secondary market, such as a 1900s peignoir (a lightweight loose robe or negligee) that sold for $4,494 in 2021. Silk satin and opulent French Alencon Lace (a type of lace coveted by the upper class and royalty) adorn the garment. Another pricey piece of lingerie is a Christian Dior bodysuit from the 1990s. This rare garment features the famous Dior “D” throughout the suit and sold for $1,300 in 2021.
With the most valuable pieces of lingerie coming from the early 1900s and late 1990s, it probably isn’t surprising that other cherished garments fall somewhere in the middle of this timeline.
The 1940s experienced a significant increase in lingerie with the founding of companies like Olga and Frederick’s of Hollywood. If you want to buy or sell vintage lingerie, check out Lucie Ann, a brand that began in 1949. Owner Lucie Ann Onderwyzer’s creations were colorful, feathery, carefree, and staple costumes for Eva Gabor in Green Acres. Some of Lucie Ann’s creations are worth almost $2,000, but you can find most of her pieces between $100 and $450.
Other interesting pieces of vintage lingerie from the late 1930s and 1940s are called Sweetheart Lingerie. This term refers to when American World War II soldiers bought unique lingerie for their girlfriends and wives back home. These pieces (pictured below) featured embroidered warnings like “off limits,” “don’t touch,” and “keep your pants on honey until I come home.” Some sets even feature the writing “Gone With the Wind” because of the film’s popularity in 1939. While these pieces still exist in the vintage world, some lingerie designers are still producing Sweetheart Lingerie to pay homage.
The 1940s weren’t the only decade bursting with beautiful lingerie. The 1930s saw gorgeous slips, like this I. Magnin & Company dress (which sold for $498 in 2022), and the 1920s produced delicate intimates, like this Trousseau lingerie set (which sold for $240 in 2013). Some of the most interesting lingerie styles came from the 1990s, when there was a mixture of classic and modern.
If you are interested in buying or selling several pieces of vintage lingerie, take comfort in knowing there is a flourishing market. For example, this collection of midcentury lingerie sold for $510 in 2021, while this collection of modern lingerie sold for $425 in 2021. Whether it’s from 1900 or 1990, any notable pieces of lingerie sell in the $300 to $400 range.
Two other items to consider for vintage lingerie collections include furniture, like lingerie chests, and artwork, my personal favorite. For example, some of the most valuable pieces of Frederick’s of Hollywood memorabilia aren’t the retailer’s clothes but its fashion illustrations.
Lingerie is a vital part of fashion and culture, and as it becomes more versatile, it becomes more popular and enduring. While some may see it as useless or frivolous, lingerie is vital to society, revealing intimate details about culture and people. I encourage more people to consider contributing to the world of vintage lingerie, whether selling or buying (…something empowering for yourself for Valentine’s Day!).
Happy shopping!
Want to read more about vintage lingerie? WorthPoint® has a wealth of Dictionary pages on the history of lingerie in different periods and specific items, such as peignoir sets.
Emily Teachout is a professional archivist who loves history, antiques, and all things vintage. She is also the owner of the Etsy shop “The Archivist’s Attic,” where she sells vintage advertisements. In her spare time, you can find her watching Turner Classic Movies, roller skating, listening to ’80s hair metal, writing about ads for her blog, arguing about the importance of disco, and playing with her cat, Alice Cooper.
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